Tag: huidverzorging

How to Layer Your Skincare Products in the Right Order

Posted on by Fabienne

At work, I often receive valid questions about the correct order of skincare products. I understand where this question comes from because there are quite a few steps involved. Below is a brief overview of the “basic products” that are most commonly used, along with a short explanation.

1: Makeup remover
Remove your makeup before cleansing your skin. Tip: Imagine you unexpectedly don’t sleep at home and still want to remove your makeup… Use some oil to clean your eyes at least. Otherwise, you’ll wake up the next morning looking like a panda, which is not very appealing. Just use a bit of sunflower or olive oil from the kitchen on a cotton pad and gently wipe your eyes. Then rinse with water, et voila 😉

2: Cleanser
Cleansers are meant to cleanse your skin, not to remove makeup. Use a cleanser that suits your skin type. Gel-based cleansers are often suitable for oily skin, while creamier cleansers are better for dry skin. When: Evening, sometimes also in the morning for very troubled or oily skin.

3: Exfoliate
Exfoliating your skin involves removing dead skin cells. If you have oily skin, use an exfoliant with BHA. If you have dry skin, use an exfoliant with AHA. By removing dead skin cells, other products are better absorbed. You’re essentially removing a certain barrier layer. When: Evening.

4: Hydrate
Every skin type needs hydration. I advise everyone to find a good moisturizer; never skip this step! Hydration is key to beautiful skin. When: Morning and evening.

5: Protect
Protect your skin with a cream that contains sunscreen, also known as SPF (Sun Protection Factor). It’s important to do this to protect your skin from the harmful effects of the sun. The sun causes signs of aging such as pigmentation, wrinkles, sagging skin and dull skin. As we age, we can’t avoid these entirely, but to slow down this process and keep your skin looking young and healthy for as long as possible, protecting your skin with sunscreen is highly recommended. When? Only during the day because the sun doesn’t shine at night, of course. Apply in the morning and repeat several times a day, especially in the summer. The protective factor only works for a few hours.

Goodluck!

With love, Fabienne

Retinol in Skincare: how to use it safely?

Posted on by Fabienne

Retinol, also known as vitamin A, is an ingredient that has been extensively researched and proven to make the skin appear younger; it stimulates cell turnover. Your cells regenerate faster, and the production of collagen and elastin is boosted. This is beneficial because as the skin ages, this process slows down naturally. With aging, cell turnover slows down, eventually leading to visible signs of skin aging such as pigmentation, fine lines, and dull skin. In short, retinol is the ultimate anti-aging ingredient!

For which skin concerns is retinol suitable?
Retinol is a suitable ingredient for ageing skin. This can start as early as age 25 because that’s when cell turnover begins to slow down, along with the production of collagen and elastin. Since retinol speeds up skin renewal, it also accelerates the shedding of old skin cells. Pigment cells are essentially pushed out of the skin through this cell turnover. Additionally, fine lines can be reduced by using retinol because they result from the decrease in collagen and elastin, the production of which is stimulated by retinol. These two substances help keep the skin firm and elastic.

How do you use retinol?
However, retinol is not always suitable for every skin type. Some skin types may react sensitively to retinol. It’s important to gradually introduce retinol into your skincare routine. Start with once a week, then twice a week. It’s good to know that retinol is an antioxidant and therefore cannot tolerate light and air. Therefore, only purchase products with retinol that are in light- and airtight packaging. Also, use retinol only in the evening, as it becomes unstable in sunlight.


The difference between serum and moisturizer.

Posted on by Fabienne

The function of a serum A serum can be used as an addition to your skincare routine because it targets specific skin concerns. These concerns may include issues like acne, hyperpigmentation, dehydrated skin, or dullness. A significant difference between a cream and a serum is that the percentage of active ingredients in a serum is higher, providing that extra boost where needed. Another important distinction is the texture. A serum is thinner – often a bit gel-like – allowing it to penetrate deeper into the skin. Once it reaches this depth, the serum can start working its magic. When choosing a serum, consider your skin type and decide which problem you want to address. For instance, if you have dehydrated skin, opt for a serum with hyaluronic acid. Or if you have sun-damaged skin with pigmentation issues, choose a serum with vitamin C. Unlike a cream, a serum does not contain SPF. Therefore, a serum is not a replacement for a cream. Make sure to always apply cream during the day to protect your skin.

Price tag Serums are generally more expensive skincare products compared to others. You’re paying for the percentage of active ingredients in a serum, which also needs to remain concentrated and stable. And that comes with a price tag.

Function of a cream The function of a cream is quite straightforward: the right cream (suited to your skin type) ensures hydrated skin. A cream has a richer texture and essentially seals in a serum. This creates a barrier layer that protects and hydrates your skin throughout the day.

How to use First, cleanse your face, then apply a serum suitable for your skin type and concerns, and finish with a cream. A cream also helps the serum stay in place within the skin.

If you’re curious about your skin condition and whether it can be improved, consider visiting a dermatological clinic in your area and seek advice from a skincare professional. ♥

My top 3 skincare ingredients

Posted on by Fabienne

As a skin therapist, I always find it exciting to try out new ingredients, provided they suit my skin type, of course. Fortunately, I have an easy-going skin that doesn’t require too much maintenance. It tends to be a bit dry at times, leaning towards dehydration. That’s why I often look for products that provide hydration and nourishment. In this blog, I’ll share with you three ingredients that I use daily and especially what they can do for your skin.

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Suitable for: acne-prone and rosacea-sensitive skin, dry skin.
Niacinamide is a versatile ingredient that can be combined with other active ingredients. It can contribute positively to many different skin issues. As we age, the number of antioxidants in the skin decreases. Niacinamide is an antioxidant, and we need it to keep the skin resilient and strong against harmful external influences. It’s beneficial to replenish these antioxidants to help the skin resist aging signs.
Niacinamide helps strengthen the (disrupted) skin barrier and retain moisture. A damaged skin barrier struggles to retain moisture, which can trigger irritation such as redness and pimples. By strengthening the skin barrier, redness and irritation can be reduced.
Additionally, niacinamide has a mild exfoliating effect, which helps combat dull skin and fine lines. Finally, niacinamide is also effective against acne due to its anti-inflammatory properties. I prefer a serum containing niacinamide because it typically has a higher concentration.

Hyaluronic Acid (HA) Suitable for: dehydrated skin
Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance in the body, with more than half of it found in the skin. Its primary function is to retain moisture in the skin, allowing it to function optimally and keeping it “wrinkle-free,” so to speak. The action of hyaluronic acid can be compared to water being poured over cracked earth. You’ll notice the cracks disappear. Similarly, when the skin retains more moisture, it appears plumper and smoother.
There are serums containing hyaluronic acid that can significantly help your skin. However, if your skin is significantly dehydrated, the best way to give it a boost is through mesotherapy. This treatment, also known as a ‘skin booster treatment,’ involves injecting hyaluronic acid into the deeper layers of the skin using tiny needles. This process hydrates and strengthens your skin from within, reducing the visibility of fine lines.

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) Suitable for: all skin types, dull skin.
You might think it’s easy to squeeze extra oranges in the morning, hoping your skin will absorb some of it. However, unfortunately, only 1% of this reaches the skin, so we need to apply these vitamins from the outside to nourish the skin.

Vitamin C naturally occurs in our skin. Due to sun exposure, vitamin C breaks down, making the skin less resilient. Products containing vitamin C are therefore popular because they provide the skin with many benefits. The antioxidant properties of vitamin C protect your skin against harmful external influences such as UV radiation and pollution. At higher concentrations, vitamin C also has brightening effects on superficial pigmentation by stimulating collagen production. So, it’s also a good ingredient for evening out the skin tone.


There, those were the ones. If you have any questions about the products I use and enjoy using, feel free to send me a message. Perhaps I can help you further 😉

Love, Fabienne

This is why a standard skincare routine doesn’t work.

Posted on by Fabienne

You want to rebalance or improve the condition of your skin. So, you start your quest for the right products, using your skin type as a starting point. Products are often selected based on whether you have oily or dry skin. Perhaps you can relate to this. While that’s perfectly fine, to truly see improvement in your skin condition, you should look beyond just your skin type. Let me explain how and why.

When pimples occur, it’s often assumed that one has oily skin. Excessive sebum production, along with the presence of the “P. acnes bacterium,” indeed causes pimples. However, this is not the sole cause of pimple formation or inflammatory reactions.

There are various factors that disrupt the balance of our skin and can lead to an inflammatory response. Some factors that can cause this include:
  • Incorrect product/ingredient usage;
  • Using water that is too hot during cleansing (often, people also cleanse their skin in the shower, which may be a few degrees too warm);
  • Using harsh tools such as a cleansing brush;
  • lack of sleep;
  • high amount of stress; 
  • Excessive sun exposure.

These are often the most common factors that I see within my practice that lead to skin problems. Often, the skin barrier is out of balance or damaged, and your goal is to restore it. When your skin barrier is out of balance, the following problems may occur: redness, pimples, extremely dry skin, dehydrated skin, or hyperpigmentation. It’s important to consider all of the above factors if you want to improve your skin condition, but let’s focus on the right skincare for now. Understand that it’s not necessarily the case that if you have pimples, products designed for oily skin will help you. Let alone a standard skincare routine. Finding the right products is personalized. It’s different for everyone because every skin is different. But how do you know exactly which products you need?

Hoe?

In many skin therapy practices, it’s possible to undergo a so-called “skin analysis.” Using devices like the Observ 520, multiple photos of various skin layers are taken. The following skin characteristics are captured:

  • Redness, circulatory problems, couperose
  • Inflammation
  • Sebum production
  • Dehydrated skin
  • Superficial and deep pigmentation damage

Just to give an example: what I often see in practice is that many people have dehydrated skin and a lack of antioxidants. As a result, the skin becomes less resilient. These characteristics can be identified in the photos, and based on this, a personalized plan can be developed to improve your skin condition. It’s essential to seek advice from a specialist or a skin therapist to determine which products are suitable for your skin to improve its condition. Many practices offer skin analysis sessions without obligation. So, it’s always worth trying 😉

Voorbeeldfoto’s huidanalyse met de Observ 520

Any questions left? Please ask down below.

Love, Fabienne

HOW DO WE KEEP OUR SKIN BARRIER HEALTHY?

Posted on by Fabienne

Our outer skin layer (the epidermis) forms the skin barrier and plays a vital role. As the name ‘barrier’ suggests, this natural skin layer protects our skin from harmful external influences. To give you a clear picture, you can compare the skin barrier to the building blocks of a house. The building blocks protect the house from external influences such as wind, cold, heat, and rain. Essentially, the skin barrier does the same and shields us from external factors such as:

  • UV rays from the sun
  • Light from our phones/tablets, etc. (blue light)
  • Environmental pollution
  • Aggressive or incorrect skincare products
  • Taking showers that are too hot

But also stress, diet, and lack of sleep can disrupt the skin barrier in the long term (internal factors). When the skin barrier is compromised, these external factors can more easily penetrate the skin and cause damage. Additionally, the skin is not able to retain moisture effectively, leading to dehydration.


The characteristics of a disrupted skin barrier include:

  • red skin
  • (quickly) irritated skin
  • comedones
  • pimpels
  • hyperpigmentation (pigmentspots)
  • fine lines
  • wrinkels
  • dull skin
  • dehydrated skin
  • itchy skin

Often, people have a combination of one or more of the factors mentioned above. But fortunately, the skin barrier can also be restored.

How do we keep the skin barrier healthy?
Start by reversing the factors mentioned above, for example, avoiding hot showers and protecting your skin from the sun using the right sunscreen. Also, it’s good to scrutinize the products you use daily. It’s possible that the products you’re using are too aggressive or not suitable for your skin type. It’s also not advisable to use cleansing brushes as they can be too harsh. If you wear a lot of makeup, it’s better to cleanse your skin twice with a cleanser.

When your skin barrier is disrupted, your skin may also be dehydrated, as mentioned earlier. In that case, it’s good to add a serum with hyaluronic acid to your daily routine. Hyaluronic acid helps retain moisture in the skin, thereby firming and soothing it.

Redness can also be caused by a disrupted skin barrier, but genetic predisposition often plays a role as well. How it develops varies from person to person. For some, it’s genetic, for others, it’s due to incorrect product use. The skin is often red when there are inflammations present, such as pimples. It’s important to soothe the skin well with the right products in such cases.

Hyperpigmentation in the form of age spots or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) – pigment spots after inflammation, is also caused by a disrupted skin barrier. The sun essentially has “free access” to cause pigmentation damage in the skin when it’s not properly protected and isn’t capable of protecting itself. This also happens when you don’t protect yourself daily with an SPF against the sun.

Wanna check your skincondition? Go to a practice for a consultation and see what your therapist can do for you. Goodluck!

Love, Fabienne

DIY: moisturizer for dry skin

Posted on by Fabienne

I love making my own moisturizer, and I mainly use them to moisturize my body. By selecting the ingredients yourself, you can tailor the moisturizer to meet your skin’s specific needs, which I find to be the best part. There are several different methods for making your own moisturizer. In this blog, I’ll show you a very simple method for making a basic moisturizer with just four ingredients. At the bottom of this blog, you’ll find an instructional video, but be sure to read through this blog first before you start!

Kies ingrediënten die bij jouw huidtype passen:

 Dry SkinOily SkinSensitive Skin
Oil Type (organic)Avocado oil
Coconut Oil
Olive Oil
Argan Oil
Almond Oil		Line Seed Oil
Almond Oil		Hazelnut Oil*
Wild Rose Oil
Jojoba Oil
EmulsifierLamecrèmeLamecrèmeLamecrème
Thickners/ButtersCacao Butter
Shea Butter		Cacao Butter
Mango Butter		Shea Butter
Water SortDistilled Water
Rose Water		Distilled Water
Rose Water		Distilled Water
Rose Water
There are many more ingredients you can add to your moisturizer, but based on this schedule, I’ll give you an idea of where to start your search. *be careful with allergies!

Supplies for 100 ml /  3.3 fl. oz. Moisturizer: 

  • Small beaker glass (100 ml)
  • Large beaker glass (1Litre)
  • 2 small glasses or saucers
  • Thermometer
  • Stirrers
  • Digital scale
  • Alcohol 96%
  • 1 cotton pad

  • 225 grams organic oil by choice
  • 8 grams lamecreme
  • 4 grams butter such as mango or shea butter
  • 63 grams of distilled water

Step 1
Wash your hands and clean the materials. Apply some alcohol to the cotton pad and wipe the inside of the beaker glasses, the scale, and the thermometer.

Step 2
Weigh each ingredient separately. Weigh 63 grams of water in a small beaker glass. This is the water phase. In a large beaker glass, weigh 25 grams of oil. Weigh 8 grams of moisturizer base on a separate saucer or in a glass, and 4 grams of butter. Add the moisturizer base and butter to the oil. This is now the oil phase.

Step 3
Heat the beaker glass with the water phase and the oil phase in a double boiler. Remove them from the heat source when the oil is clear (meaning the butter and moisturizer base are dissolved). Neither phase should exceed 70 degrees. 

Step 4
Gradually add the water to the oil while stirring continuously. Do not do this the other way around! Stir for at least 10 minutes until a homogeneous mixture is formed. After a few minutes, the mixture will start to look flaky. At this point, the oil and water will begin to bind. Continue stirring vigorously.

Step 5
Let the mixture cool to 40 degrees. Optionally, add fragrance and/or preservatives. When the mixture is completely cooled, you can store it in a jar or dispenser. I always prefer a dispenser because it keeps the moisturizer fresh for longer without exposure to bacteria, light, or air.

Cold Pressing
There are different methods for obtaining vegetable oils. One of those methods is cold pressing, where the oil is obtained from the material without a heating process. During this process, the valuable substances of the plant remain intact. So, when purchasing your ingredients, keep this in mind.

Allergens
Optionally, you can add fragrance and preservatives to the moisturizer. But if you are prone to irritation, I advise against it. Moreover, the moisturizer smells nice even without adding these ingredients. 

And then the most important thing…

  • Do not use homemade moisturizer as sunscreen; instead, use safe sunscreen that you can buy in stores. 

  • Do not use homemade moisturizer to treat skin problems such as acne, rosacea, pigmentation, melasma, skin irritation, psoriasis, or any other skin problem. Always consult a skin therapist or dermatologist for advice. 

  • Making your own moisturizer is mainly a fun activity. The ingredients I use in the video are very mild. If you’re still unsure, test a small amount on a small patch of skin before using the moisturizer entirely. 

Good luck with making your own moisturizer! Will you let me know if it works or if you have any questions? 

Love, Fabienne

Source: Lexicon van Cosmetische Grondstoffen, (2013)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YeCrMOcHl1o

Are organic skincare products better for your skin?

Posted on by paul

The ingredients used in cosmetics can be either synthetic or natural. In short, synthetic ingredients are substances made by humans, while natural ingredients are derived from nature. Most natural cosmetics manufacturers share a philosophy that could be described as using the goodness of nature and/or producing with respect for nature. If I believe what I see on the internet, in stores, or on my Instagram feed, people are becoming increasingly aware of the ingredients in the products we apply in our daily skincare routines. Consequently, more and more blogs are emerging that provide advice and tips on how to create a completely healthy lifestyle. But do natural products really work that well? Many of these bloggers believe that natural cosmetics actually contribute to healthier skin, but unfortunately, for more than half of natural ingredients, this has not yet been scientifically proven. In fact, many products are sold with added natural ingredients that you might not want to apply, such as lavender or mint, which can actually be irritating. But that’s not the only concern.

The effectiveness of a good product depends on multiple factors, not just active ingredients. Effectiveness depends on the processing, shelf life, concentration, purity, and stability.

And this processing starts with the extraction of ingredients because an extract from a cucumber or an aloe vera plant doesn’t go directly into a jar. Even if the ingredient comes from nature and is effective, to what extent does a product still fulfill its promise after undergoing several processes before it can be sold? For example, green tea naturally has a brown color. When this ingredient is added to a cream, it can only be added in low concentrations, or else the cream will turn brown. But to be effective, a higher concentration is needed. However, a brown cream is unattractive to most people. Ultimately, natural products often contain synthetic ingredients as well, which are often needed to maintain stability.

But don’t get me wrong, I’m not against natural products. Ingredients that have been proven to have a positive contribution include oatmeal, (manuka) honey, coconut oil, green tea, and soy. If they meet all the above conditions and provided you don’t have pre-existing skin problems, why not? Ultimately, it’s important that products contain ingredients that are safe, whether synthetic or natural. And when you combine the right ingredients from both sides, it’s ultimately about the right composition and stability. So… it all comes down to finding the right balance. 😉

If you want to know how the use of ingredients in cosmetics is legally regulated within Europe, you can check out https://ec.europa.eu/growth/sectors/cosmetics/cosing_en

With love, Fabienne

Sources
bron 1: Nederlandse Cosmetica Vereniging (2019). Natuurlijke Cosmetica. Geraadpleegd op: https://www.ncv-cosmetica.nl/cosmetica/natuurlijke-cosmetica/

https://www.degroenedrogist.nl/nl/service/certificates/

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